Journal

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Window dressing

August 9, 2005
Keeping You In Stitches
By Sally Cowan

Windows originally were just glass and a wooden frame. A window was considered a necessary opening that let fresh air in and fireplace smoke out. It has become much more than that in the 21st century. Let’s take a minute and give some thought to the historical background of window treatments.
Historically, windows spoke for themselves. A window was part of the architectural design and didn’t need much help—it was simply a window. But that has changed. As far back as medieval Europe, windows were covered with a wooden shutter to provide protection from the outside world. Very few people had the means to add window dressings to their homes. In reality, only the nobility were able to afford them.
During the Middle Ages, designs became richer and bolder. It wasn’t uncommon to see beautiful rich embroidery in homes of the day. Curtains became a common addition to the home in the 16th century in England, when windows were covered with one large piece of fabric rather than two pieces as is common today. The Italians and French led the way in terms of curtains that hung in pairs, well short of the floor.
The 17th century was a turning point in home decorating, which started to include curtains, wall hangings, and even the furnishings. But curtains were still not seen everywhere until the 18th century. So what happened in the 18th century? The answer is simple: Fabric became much more accessible. There was an abundance of printed cotton chintzes, silks, velvets, brocades, and mixed fabrics such as silk/linen blends. By the 19th century both curtains and draperies played a major role in interior home decorating. Words we are familiar with today were just starting to be used: swag, cornice, fringe, tassel, pole, finial, bracket, and molding.
At the beginning of the 20th century the window styles were simpler. Heavy, ornate fabrics took a back seat. There was another major change during this time—manufacturers made it possible to buy curtains rather than make them. Not only that, but they were washable. What a fabulous concept! Also at this time, there was an abundance of fabric patterns and colors available to choose from. So here we are, in the 21st century when fabrics, information, styles, patterns, and hardware are found in hundreds of stores. We are free to personalize our windows any way we want. That’s what I call freedom. (Barnes and Noble has ordered in more of my books, Sew a Beautiful Window. First come, first serve. Enjoy 156 pages of gorgeous window dressings along with instructions and hundreds of color photos.) This book was written from my heart.

Posted by Sally Cowan on Thursday, August 18, 2005 at 08:58

Pattern making vocabulary

May 17. 2005
Keeping You In Stitches
By Sally Cowan

I have received many emails that tell me some of you are making your own patterns. This is wonderful news. I thought it might help if I shared some pattern making terms.
1. Balancing: Balancing is the process of matching two seams to establish grainline, seam length, and the amount of flare or fullness introduced.
2. Close and cup: Close and cup is a term used when trueing darts. One dartline is creased. The creased fold is matched to the opposite dartline and dart is pinned closed. Pattern is folded under at apex or dart point, and seamline crossing dart is trued.
3. Copy: a thin pattern making paper is placed over the draft or sections of the draft, and pinned to prevent shifting. Using proper tools, lines, cross marks are copied.
4. Cross mark: a short line which crosses a seamline, dartline, tuck line and so on. Used to indicate seam joining, matching points or stitching points.
5. Cut: cut on inside of pencil line. This refers only to cutting finished outside lines on slopers and patterns to retain the original fit when copying and outlining.
6. Dart underlay: a dart is a "V" shaped, stitched fold starting at a certain width at one end and tapering to a point at the other end. The area between the stitched lines is called Underlay or Pick Up.
7. Dot: a small round mark used to denote a specific point on a sloper or pattern, often indicated with an awl.
8. Notches: Notches are cross marks transferred from seamline to edge of seam allowance, using a notcher. Notches are used on finished patterns.
9. Outline: The process of drawing a line along the edge of the sloper or draft without seam allowances
10. Tracing: tracing is the process of transferring pattern lines, using a tracing wheel, onto another sheet of paper.
11. Trueing: the process of connecting all points on a pattern and checking for accuracy of measurements, dartlines, seamlines,cross marks, shape of seamlines and more.
I hope these help get you headed in the right direction. Send comments or questions to: stitches@aug.com.

Posted by Sally on Thursday, June 09, 2005 at 11:40

The fashion circle

June 7, 2005
Keeping You In Stitches
By Sally Cowan

What’s in this season, is out next season, or what’s out this season will be in next season…..and so it goes. Fashion is just a big circle, a never-ending circle. But it is always fun to report the IN’S for later on in the year. Dresses will have an Empire waist and jersey will be seen everywhere. Valentino, Diane von Furstenberg, Chloe will be featured in most fashion magazines. Jackets will be very decorative and the black suit is back. (I never knew it went away, did you?). Whether popcorn or plain, cashmere or cotton, a wear-with-everything knit is the new staple. Designers show V-necks and cardigans over everything, proving that sweaters have replaced jackets as the throw-it-on-and-go piece. Remember the 60’s? I sure do. Silver-mesh tanks, houndstooth-splashed skirts and funnel-neck bow-belted coats ruled the runway in the 60’s. Coats have taken a somber turn but don’t think black and beige mean boring. These coats are rich on detail and texture and come in the most refined cuts. Standout styles are in lush velvet, embellished with bows and rosettes, belted or even trimmed in faux fur. If you love bags, here are the best new bags:
· Grommets made an impressive showing.
· Chain handles were updated and mixed with chick buckles and zippers.
· Crocodile or alligator in jewel tones or shiny black is no longer just for evening clutches.
· Fur is a huge trend. Incarnations included cozy shearling at Hermes and Fendi’s luxurious mink numbers.

If you love footwear, here are the best new shoes:
· Gleaming velvet in rich jewel colors turned heels positively plush.
· Lace-up boots ran the gamut from military style to Victorian-inspired.
· Chick comfort took the form of flat boots in leather, crocodile, satin and velvet.
· Platforms are open and closed toed.
· Pumps were perfected with interesting cutout detail or tassels.

The extras:
· Earrings make a comeback(again, I didn’t know they left). Be sure and wear your brooches and necklaces.
· Encrusted stones on belts, necklaces and bracelets add depth and drama to the look.
· Scarves are a must. Wear one for day and one for night.

So what is the bottom line? Always wear what makes you feel good. If you feel good, you will glow on the outside. Nothing wrong with being fashionable, but fashion does not rule our lives.

Posted by Sally on Thursday, June 09, 2005 at 11:33

Count your sheep

May 31, 2005
Keeping You In Stitches
By Sally Cowan

“Baa Baa black sheep, have you any wool? Yes sir, yes sir, three bags full.” This nursery rhyme takes on a whole new meaning now that I’ve been to a sheep farm that produces gorgeous yarns. The Shadyside Farm and Mill in western Pennsylvania uses organic farming practices and shears his own flock. Our Aunt Eva and Uncle Dick made all the arrangements so that Cary and I would be able to see the farm. We arrived at 9am and were greeted by David and right away we felt at home. He led us into a barn area where we met his wife, Debbie. It is obvious that the two of them love the process of sheep to yarn. They explained that their flock has been selected for 20 years from far and wide. The Lincoln sheep were purchased out of Canada and they are known for their gorgeous soft handling fleeces and excellent wool cover. It actually knits like mohair. The Romney sheep fleece is great for making into sweaters. The Shetland sheep have gorgeous, soft handling fleeces. But there were also German Angora rabbits. A 60/40 blend of lambs wool and angora bunny yarn create a 2 ply worsted weight knitting yarn.
They have around 100 ewes and 5 rams on 100 acres of land. We were treated to literally going from sheep to the finished yarn. David and Debbie gathered up a Shetland ram and he showed us how it is sheared. The sheep’s head was between his knees as he cut the fleece. As long as the head was facing forward and not tipped to the side, the sheep seemed very content. After shearing the fleece, it is put in a washing machine and washed about five times. After drying the wool, it is put on a conveyor belt and sent through a comber. This separates the wool and starts making it smoother. The wool is gathered in bins and sent through another machine to refine it. It is then spun onto spools. If the wool breaks, instead of tying a knot, they have a hand-held machine that air locks the pieces together. Result: no knots. It is then put onto spools, cones and spun into skeins of 1-ply, 2-ply or more. Every machine can be tweaked a little here and a little there and it has taken them years to get the soft finished product they are so proud of. I also found the felt machine to be very interesting. The wool can be placed on a flat steel area and after the top has been closed over it, it meshes it into very strong, absorbable felt. This makes great hats, mittens, purses and more.
I was in awe of them when I discovered that she is a critical care nurse and he is a respiratory therapist at local hospitals. How do they find the time? With their stressful jobs I believe this is something they both love and enjoy doing together so It has become their “soft place to fall.” After we saw the complete process, they graciously took us into their home and served us hot coffee and homemade nut bread. As we were talking I found out their son was getting married the next day. With all they had on their minds, they took the time to share their love of yarn. When I count sleep tonight I truly will have a new appreciation for them. From sheep to a sweater….it truly is a miracle.
Ewe really have to see it to believe it. If you want to learn more, go to: www.shadysidefarm.com. Thanks again, David and Debbie, for your wonderful hospitality.

Posted by Sally on Thursday, June 09, 2005 at 11:32

Keeping You In Stitches

May 4, 2005

Keeping You In Stitches

By Sally Cowan

Two weeks ago I started some articles about useful things in our everyday life. Those of us who sew know the importance of a safety pin. How many times have you used one to pull elastic through a casing? In prehistoric times, humans used simple pins, made from thorns, splinters of wood, or fish bones, and later from metal, to fasten their clothes together. Such pins had an obvious disadvantage, however, that they could easily fall out. Improved, U-shaped versions appeared in Bronze-Age Europe in the second millennium BC. By the sixth century BC the Romans had developed the fibular—a U-shaped pin with a cradle at the end of one arm, a point on the other arm, and a coil at the bend, providing tension to press the point into the cradle and hold the pin closed. But somewhere, the fibula was lost. By the Victorian times buttons, laces, snaps and hook-and-eye had replaced the once ubiquitous pin. In 1842 Thomas Woodward of New York was granted a patent for a “shielded shawl and diaper pin” that was almost exactly like today’s safety pin. It had a cup at one tip to hold the point and shield it. But it had one crucial drawback—it was hinged at the bend, which meant that the tension to hold it closed had to come from fabric bunched between the two arms. Too little fabric and the pin would come open, too much and it would bend out of shape.

The solution to this problem was solved by the “dress-pin,” patented in 1849 by Walter Hunt. Does the name sound familiar? He also invented the ice plow, early bicycle, and the first practical sewing machine. He owed a draftsman $15.00 for a drawing so the draftsman proposed that Hunt should assign him the rights to whatever he could invent using an old piece of wire. In return the debt would be forgiving and Hunt would be given $400.

After three hours of twisting, Hunt came up with a self-sprung safety pin, where the wire itself was coiled at the bend to make a spring that would provide tension to hold the point against a cradle or shield. There was no hinge joint or pivot that would wear out or work loose. It could be used, said Hunt in a patent considered a classic by inventors ever since, “without danger of bending….or wounding the fingers.”

Don’t you wish you had invented the safety pin? I do. (comments: send to stitches@aug.com.)

Posted by Sally on Friday, April 08, 2005 at 15:48